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| Happy Holidays from Bella Notte Linens! |
My grandmother was a photographer so I've always been surrounded by photos, but the first time I took it seriously was during a course I took at UC Santa Cruz called, "The Making of a Photographic Book." Ansel Adams was the photo expert teaching the class along with Beaumont and Nancy Newhall – renowned historians of photography. I was such a beginner I barely knew the difference between the aperture and shutter speed. We did produce a book and I had one image published in it.
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I didn't switch to photography as a career until my mid-thirties. I'd been a real estate appraiser and general contractor until then. When I did switch, I went back the Academy of Art in San Francisco and took one course at California College of the Arts in Oakland. I did a year taking the classes that I needed to get me out in the field. But I had a family and had to start producing income quickly. I assisted other professionals for about two years and then started knocking on doors. Architectural and interiors photography was my primary focus.
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| ©Jay Graham - Interior Photography |
I think I was introduced through a mutual friend, Jeanne Delparte. All I can say is that the way we've worked together has evolved so much that our photography and production process is amongst the most seamless and high-tech processes for any of my shoots.Q: Bella Notte works with a stylist, Juliet White, in England—how do you help to connect Juliet to the Bella studio during the photo shoot? What applications and accessories do you use? How has this process evolved?
We're connecting to Juliet via the internet mainly using Lightroom, Skype, Dropbox, and a program called CamTwist. In the early days we started communicating with Skype. Juliet could talk with us and see the general layout of the scene we were photographing but it wasn't the exact angle I'd be shooting because she was viewing through the iMac's built in camera. I'd email her small jpegs to get the exact angle and make final decisions. We shot for eight days on this first shoot and at the end we almost felt as if Juliet was in the room with us.
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| Stylist Juliet is able to see both the live set and the actual screen of Jay's camera |
On the next shoot, we incorporated Dropbox which made transferring jpegs (images) much smoother and the process faster. The latest innovation has been utilizing CamTwist to allows me to designate the video feed in my Canon SLR as the camera for Skype. Juliet is able to see the setup exactly as we are seeing it. I can zoom into specific areas to give her a more detailed look if needed. We still send her a medium resolution images to confirm the styling, but the process is much more fluid using CamTwist. Again, this is pretty cutting-edge stuff and it really allows us to work together seamlessly as a team.Q: What steps are involved in setting up for a photo shoot? Lighting? Camera placement?
Set up involves connecting the camera and computer, setting up a file system, and making sure all the software including Skype are syncing. Lighting is fairly simple - we use natural light so controlling it's direction is the main focus. We close off any overhead skylights with black plastic to give our light a directional feel from the side to highlight the textures and depth of the fabrics.
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| A wide angle look at how each shoot gets its perfect natural lighting |
We generally have two set-ups going at once. As I'm shooting one, the other is being assembled so that it's pretty much ready to go when we're finished with the first one. As a side note, I arrive on the scene on the day of the shoot and begin my part that day; the Bella Notte team has already spent weeks designing and preparing for the shoot.
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| Designer Kathleen preps the bed on one set while Mitchell hangs Linen Whisper curtains on a second set |
Once the set is ready to go I take a look at the sketches and take directions from the team on what's important to show and what angle we'll be shooting from. I set up the camera, take a preliminary shot or two until we have a rough first image. I then crop and do a rough tuning of color and exposure. The Bella Notte team including Juliet in the UK check the photo on the computer and via Skype to make sure we're in the ball park. I then create a medium resolution jpg image that I put in a Dropbox that Juliet has access to. She opens the file and can make more precise styling decisions based on the higher resolution shot. We repeat this process until everyone is satisfied then move on to the next.Q: What is your favorite part of the process?
That's a tough question. I like the whole process. It's collaborative from the beginning to the end and it's all about pulling things together, solving problems and creating the best photo we can. If I had to pick one thing it would be seeing the sets for the first time and composing the shot in camera. I love photographing beautiful things.
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| ©Jay Graham - Bella Notte Linens 2010 |
The only time it gets dull is when the flow slows down for some unexpected reason like having to rebuild the set because of lumps in the bed etc. The team is incredible and team is the operative word. There aren't any egos getting in the way – only collaboration and a lot of humor. The Bella Notte photo shoot is my favorite product shoot.Q: What was it like working with things like live bunnies and floating bubbles?
Did I mention humor?Q: What percentage of the final image is achieved through post production?
I don't know what the percentage would be but it's not much. It mainly entails cropping, color correction, fine tuning of the exposure, and a little photoshop to clean up things like dust bunnies on the floor, and small blemishes on the set walls.Q: Do you ever "miss the shot"? Do you ever feel like you need to go back and do it again or do you just make it work when that happens?
If we feel like we've missed the shot we definitely re-do it even if it means rebuilding the set. We rarely have to do that. We rarely have to redo a shot for technical reasons because we can see the final shot in full detail as soon as we've shot it. Generally a re-do happens when we look at all the shots together and see one that is just not up to par with the others.Q: How do you feel when you see the final inspiration books?
Great! The books and the sets that they dream up and build are such a great representation of the quality and possibilities of Bella Notte linens.Q: Where you do you get your photography inspiration?
Beautiful, exciting things in interesting light. My wife can tell you that one of my favorite photography tools is the u-turn. If I see something interesting, I stop and get an image.Q: What style of art and photography is in your home?
Eclectic. We have photography and art that I've produced as well as that of our friends and things we've found on our travels.
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| ©Jay Graham - Travel Photography |
I have so many that I can't pick out one. But honestly, it's the photography and not the photographer that intrigues me most. If it's beautiful, I don't care who shot it. I just like it.Q: What do you think about Instragram and other similar editing software apps?
I think it's helped a lot of people get interested in and take part in photography and that's great.Q: What's your biggest challenge as a photographer?
The business end – I'd rather just shoot.
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| Little Potato Pie snuggling up in his Bella! |
We think it's a lovely image too - If you'd like to send your own photos to be featured on the blog, email us!"I am merely a customer in LOVE with my Bella Notte bedding. This morning, I found my Frenchie (named Potato, Sweet Potato, Potato Pie, Tater Tot, etc...) resting on my pile of Bella Notte pillows…I thought it was a quite lovely image of your delicious linens in real life!"
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| A collage of snap shots from a recent trip to Europe for MAISON&OBJET and Heimtextil |
I also go to museums quite a bit, art exhibits, textile oriented, and those are always very inspirational. The last one I saw that just blew me away was at the Jean Paul Gaultier exhibit at the de Young Museum in San Francisco. I think I saw it two or three times! He is a genius; I could have seen it time and time again.
Q: Do you have a favorite designer? I’m not necessarily influenced by fashion design per say, I don’t follow the trends very closely. But as far as interior design, I am very intrigued/influenced by Muriel Brandolini. Her use of colors and textures and layering is very inspirational.
Q: What do you do when you are feeling uninspired? If I’m uninspired it usually happens because I need a break, I’m over saturated, burnt out, and need to take some space. When I’m on vacation I can get very inspired because I’m rested and reflective. A vacation in Hawaii each month should be mandatory!Q: What makes Bella stand out from other brands?
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| Kathleen inspects new fabrics |
That is always an interesting series of emotions when you see your product being copied. I think initially one feels very proprietary and taken aback that someone would blatantly copy you. But then again, it’s the fashion industry, the bedding version, and that was Design 101. I try to find a sense of adulation in it…'imitation is the sincerest form of flattery' as they say. And then what it usually does is get me in gear, it lights a little fire. It inspires me to continue looking for that next design, that next great color, that next collection.Q: Why do you put such an emphasis on local, eco-friendly, and charitable causes?
It’s part of doing business in the 21st century. And even prior to that it’s been important to us. Using non-toxic dyes has made producing consumer goods less impactful on the environment.We are making a product that uses resources, but because it utilizes a process that doesn't pollute so heavily, it is not making so much of a negative footprint. And to the best of our ability we bring in organic fabrications or products like Tencel (made from wood-pulp), which have much less impact on the environment. It just makes sense.
As far as being charitable, when you’re in a business like this it doesn't feel balanced when it’s only about the profit and the gain. There is plenty to do with our scrap product so that is doesn't get thrown away. Plus we like to donate our end use product to causes that are dear to our hearts. One of our mission statements when we first developed the company was that family comes first. That translates to our donations as well. We donate to battered women’s shelters, Habitat for Humanity, Marin Food Bank, anything to do with families and aiding local community members. It makes for a more balanced company.
I think they are basically both the same: I believe our biggest success is having mastered and refined the art of garment-dyed bedding. And our biggest challenge is marinating this difficult process and continually producing pieces that meet our high standards.Q: Some might think you are the face of Bella, who else is a part of the creative team and how do they help with your vision?
There is a very large group of talented individuals that comprise our company—everyone here plays a vital role in our success and within the creative team, we have quite a few key players. One being our extremely talented stylist, Juliet White. She lives in England and we correspond via email while brainstorming ideas and organizing sets, then graduate to Skype during our actual photo shoot. Her ideas, use of props, color and texture combinations always push the envelope ever so slightly, constantly inspiring us and seemingly our customers as well.
Our head of visual media and design assistant, Taylor, is also a contributor to this team. She is able to channel the constant flow of ideas within our company into cohesive projects, whether that means seeing out the development of a new texture or tone with me, organizing and collaborating on a photo shoot, or traveling to the design shows to aid and research and development of new collections.
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| Photographer Jay Graham |
We also have our photographer, Jay Graham, who works with our team masterfully. He is an extremely gifted photographer who is able to take our information and designs and, in the midst of a chaotic photo shoot, truly capture the essence of Bella Notte.
Our dyer, Mark, is able to problem solve and relentlessly interpret the colors that we come up with. It can sometimes take as many as 10-15 attempts, but he has the ability to meet those challenges as he is not only a technician but also an extremely creative individual.
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| Mark our dyer |
Last week Bella Notte Linens made a cameo appearance on the San Francisco Bay Area's #1 rated Sarah & Vinnie Morning Show! Many of our staff are loyal listeners, so we dropped off a gift (a Silk Velvet Quilted throw blanket in Flax) to one of the DJ's, Sarah Clark. She famously adores interior design and cozying up on her couch, which she calls "command central" - so we thought we'd offer a Bella addition.
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| Sarah and Vinnie, the morning show Hosts |
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| Designer Kathleen McCoy in her home. |
When I was in design school in LA, pretty much everyone in the industry said you can’t do a design business in San Francisco. Fortunately at the time there was a very large company called Jessica McClintock, formally known as Gunne Sax, and I got a job where I learned a great deal and made a lot of contacts—many of whom I still use to this day.
That being said, it is challenging. There is a much smaller industry than in LA, a smaller pool of sewers and contractors, and therefore I believe they are more expensive as well. We have been fortunate, but it has been a challenge. We utilize all local craftspeople, from cutters to sewers to dyers.Q: How did you get into designing bed linens?
I originally had a polar fleece jacket line called MARINWEAR. The line was doing well and was fun because polar fleece had just come on the scene, and we decided to cut the fleece more as a traditional jacket.
I brought my samples down to the local furniture store in downtown Mill Valley and asked if they would dress the bed on consignment. For some reason, I guess it was timing, the idea of washed velvet and linens and silks really took off. They approached me asking if I would dress their beds at a very large furniture show in North Carolina and I agreed. People were approaching me to represent my line, but at the time I didn't even have a line! Just some samples. So I developed a line, presented it, added some vintage fabrics that we cut up into pillows. Washed everything. It was perfect timing, they took off.
Up until then, high-end bedding was dry clean only. We broke the mold with that and in addition we brought in a lot of soothing colors. At that time most bedding was in shades of white and ivory. I was initially inspired by some Dupioni silk sample cards I had with soft greens, dusky blue, soft creams. I had the colors in my silks but I wanted my linens and velvet to match. I did some research looking up local dyers. Luckily a very good dyer was just 15 miles north of me so I approached him with my idea. When I initially came he looked at me and said, “no one garment dyes bedding’ and I said, “so, can you do it?”. He was hesitant at first but to his credit he made it happen. He’s a very good creative formulator and matched the colors perfectly and successfully dyed each product. I was thrilled, and hence the invention of garment-dyed bedding!
Yes. When the bedding line came about, I still had the jacket line. But it was clearly too much for me, my little garage and my young family to accommodate.
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| A family Halloween photo from the 90's, from left: Kathleen, Taylor, Mike, Sean, and Bob |
So I had to decide. I chose the bedding for one reason: I didn't have to change it out five times a year, which you have to do with fashion. On that note, I have found in this industry that they really don’t want you to get rid of anything. I think if our customers had their way we’d have every product we've ever done still in the line while at the same time still introducing new. As opposed to fashion where they really just want what’s next. As a creative, I’m always coming up with new ideas and really enjoy that process. I almost have to keep the reigns on as you can only introduce so much. So yes, I do miss that change and the stimulation of seeing what’s new.
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| Kathleen at age 16 |
My children are raised at this point, but any working mom will attest that it is extremely challenging to participate in your children’s lives in the way that you want to and at the same time run a business. As far as being a business owner as a woman, I think it’s had its advantages and disadvantages. When I first started my company around 16 years ago, the industry was still dominated by men business-wise, though many of the designers were women. You do have to learn to be a little tougher than you might naturally be. But in general I wouldn't say that I've hit any glass ceilings.Q: How did you come up with the name Bella Notte Linens?
I was at a dinner party with friends and we were discussing my new line. I knew that I needed to change from MARINWEAR and my friend Ken Demont suggested, "How about "Belle Nuit?", which is French for beautiful night. I liked it, but thought people might have difficulty pronouncing the name so we translated it in a few languages and came up with the Italian, Bella Notte. (Below: MARINWEAR LINENS in early 1996, and Bella Notte in 1997)
We were so young and naïve when we started out, it was a very serendipitous move to even be doing what we were doing. It has very much evolved. We have listened to our customers over the years and to the best of our ability given them what they request. We have realized what has made us special is our innovative uses of our fabrications and not being afraid to try something that hasn't been tried before, like garment-dyed bedding, and pushing the envelope a little. But that being said, we aren't so far out of mainstream that most people can’t relate to our collections, our fabrics, our colors, and find something that inspires them.
We have moved away from what I like to call the “country cottage look”. Though it is still quite pretty, it is now a much smaller part of the line. We have simplified our look, cleaned it up, adding a bit more of an urban feel. At the same time, it will always be a little bit different because our colors are not necessarily mainstream…they have a unique quality to them, giving a couture lean to our collections.
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| 2007 |
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| bella notte gets a new logo |
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| 2010 |
